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Comment | What the art market doesn’t allow, branded content does for Tom Sachs – The Art Newspaper

November 2, 2025
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The foundations of artist illustration are up for grabs in right now’s nervously experimental market. In August, a month that introduced us the merry-go-round mini-drama of Jeff Koons’s return to Gagosian from Tempo Gallery, having left Gagosian for them in 2021, got here too a stunning electronic mail announcement from a US public relations agency, titled “Tom Sachs: Now Represented by The Lede Firm”.

The physique of the e-mail clarifies that that is an “company illustration” and its small print notes that Thaddaeus Ropac “will proceed to characterize Tom Sachs for all gallery and positive artwork inquiries”, a relationship that has been in place since 1998.

The Lede Firm could have overblown a reasonably commonplace—and, due to Sachs ending his contract and transferring to a distinct company, short-lived—PR function, however the transient extra illustration nonetheless begs the query: the place does a gallery finish and an company start?

In Sachs’s case, selling clothes offers falls into the latter camp. These embody a collaboration with Levi’s denims and a long-standing association with Nike, for whom his studio has not too long ago created an app with weekly health and way of life challenges (“participation will assist change your life”), all in support of selling its Mars Yard 3.0 trainers, which have been launched in September (retail price ticket $275).

Sachs’s apply has lengthy explored paradoxes of consumerism, although such collaborations appear a far cry from his celebrated works from the flip of this century, which included an Hermès hand grenade and a Chanel-branded guillotine. His public sale report of $302,400 was for Tiffany Worth Meal, a 1998 work that overlaid a McDonald’s meal on a tray with the jeweller’s branding.

A chance for higher relevance

Each Sachs and his company representatives lean into the creative and even conceptual nature of his model collaborations—artwork has lengthy elevated style greater than the reverse—and his actions definitely appear extra artistic than, for instance, placing artwork onto a designer purse.

On the identical time, Sachs is now working in a distinct atmosphere and sees a chance for higher relevance than right now’s artwork market alone tends to permit. He describes Nike, with its buyer base estimated at greater than 100 million, as a “megaphone” for his concepts.

Extra prosaically, the worth of such collaborations with a enterprise reminiscent of Nike, whose model alone is estimated at greater than $30bn, is prone to be extra financially rewarding than positive artwork. Sachs has an more and more bold apply to fund and his model offers seemingly quantity to way more than will be constructed from 50% of his artwork gross sales—at Frieze Seoul in September, Ropac offered considered one of his sculptures for $90,000.

Ropac’s function is to maintain Sachs artistically celebrated, together with by worldwide museum reveals in addition to the artwork market, and the gallery opened a Sachs solo present (together with a espresso and mezcal bar) in its London house this month in the course of the prime Frieze slot. With out such validation, manufacturers can be much less enthusiastic. However the arrival of businesses reminiscent of The Lede Firm into the constellation of creative illustration underlines the newest actuality, wherein the market is proscribed, financially and promotionally. As Sachs tells The Artwork Newspaper, “Working with Nike is motivated by the concept that artwork takes many types, and that the traditional museum-gallery-collector pipeline often called ‘the Artwork World’ isn’t crucial factor about artwork.”



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